The world of the Geiko

The trip is starting to draw to a close, but one quintessential Kyoto experience remains. As part of a tour of the Geisha districts of Kyoto, we were able to have lunch with a performance by an apprentice geisha.

In Kyoto, geisha are called geiko, or “arts woman”, and the apprentice is a maiko or “dancing girl”. According to our guide, because the maiko are still honing their craft, they get the more brightly colored kimono and more elaborate hairpieces. Veteran geiko are more skilled at dancing, playing instruments, etc, and don’t need as showy attire.

First we got a tour of the districts where the geisha agencies and teahouses are.

Narrow alley showing the depth of the houses.
The lanterns signify the district. This one was made up of eight districts that combined, so the symbol is a string of 8 rice balls.
A good-luck figure perched on the wall.
Shops that supply the geiko. Here, elaborate hairpins or clips.
A shrine to the patron kami-sama of performers.

Once we got into the other districts, photography wasn’t allowed. At lunch, the maiko allowed us to take pictures but I only took a few. It’s really a rare opportunity to see a geiko or maiko perform. Typically the teahouses are members-only, or by invitation from a member.

The elaborate hairpieces and showy kimono of a maiko.
The obi (sash or belt) is seven meters long, and the maiko needs help to put it on.

Kanasue was our maiko and she was very good about answering our questions. She also performed a dance, “Seasons of Gion”, and played a drinking game with us (though there was no actual drinking). It was a very memorable experience and highly recommended if you get the opportunity.

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